Review: La Cava de Marcelo (Ensenada)
This is the kind of place that gets me excited to write, a place that honours food throughout its entire life cycle, and one that fuels hope and optimism that a sustainable food system is in fact possible.
Buckle up – it’s gonna be a good review.
La Cava de Marcelo is a beautiful dairy farm in Ojos Negros, about 1 hour east of Ensenada. A farm that has been in the same family for generations and specializes in organic cheese. La Cava is well known for their cheese storage and aging processes which one can taste and pair with local wines.
I have been here a few times, but this last time, I have to say it was really memorable. In mid- July, when lockdown desperation sent us out looking for a “safe” restaurant experience – a farm with a beautiful outdoor sitting area came to mind as the perfect option – and it was (is).
The place itself is nothing less than the children’s book depiction of a dairy farm; with a red stable, sunflowers, and a bunch of happy cows eating grass. The restaurant area sits under beautiful tree groves, thick enough to bring the summer heat down by a few degrees Celcious.
The food stays true to the freshness and abundance of the pacific ocean, while colliding with raw and herbal flavors of the surrounding farm, creating the ultimate Ensenada experience.
APPETIZERS
For starters Marcello recommended the fried squid. I believe a recommendation by the owner shall never be ignored, and so we took his insider advice. This was not just your ordinary calamari with crispy tentacles (which I do love), this was a part of the squid I had never had before; thick, meaty, soft and chunky all at once. In terms of chunkiness it felt like an ocean version of a very delicate chicken nugget, and in terms of texture it resembled an extremely soft agedashi tofu (deep fried soft japanese tofu). It was a whole new fried squid experience for me. Although everything that came after was delicious, there was something magical about these squid nuggets that we still can’t stop thinking about today.
This appetizer was the special of the day, and it’s not usually on the menu. If you are lucky it’s available when you visit – don’t dare cease the opportunity, it will change your squid game forever.
We also got the spinach oysters, and the cured and grilled sardines. Among these three, the cured sardines were my favorite ones. I am an addict to strong pungy flavours, and the salty and sour burst is like an adrenaline kick to my taste buds. Love it.
MAIN DISHES
Since I am shamelessly a human seal, I ordered the other appetizer special of the day as a main dish; the bluefin tuna sashimi. This picture is certainly worth 1000 words, because there’s not much else I can say about it that is not visible to the eye; amazing tuna from the Baja California coast, with a light ginger and soy sauce marinade.
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The other three dishes that were ordered by my companions were the octopus risotto, which came prepared in a spinach sauce, and the beef cutlet which was served with a side of polenta.
After a few hours of eating, digestion and the summer heat inevitably led us all into a food-coma. Thankfully, the farm has a large garden with soft grass and a lot of shade to lay down for a siesta before the drive back home.
I highly recommend arriving ahead of time in order to try the cheese tasting and to get a tour of the farm. You can check out the cheese making facilities and the milking stations, all of which certainly enriches the farm-to-table experience of the meal you will have.
As I said, I proudly rave about this place. Its family history, its legacy, the gorgeous farm, the care and attention given to the animals, and of course, the absolutely delicious food, all combined create a restaurant experience that has meaning and soul. In every bite one can taste the principles and philosophies that were cemented into the farm’s foundation and through which the deep roots continue to nurture every dish sent out of the kitchen.
I would like to place this restaurant on a pedestal for others to consider learning from. Not every restaurant owner will have access to a farm as a location, but every restaurant has the opportunity (and responsibility) to honour, respect, and safeguard the health of seeds, animals, people and the land.
Buen provecho,
Cookie
You might find interesting: Can organic soil help mitigate Climate Change?
Alma de la Gala
Soy tu fan.. me encanta como escribes y describes cada sensación y platillo. Y por supuesto que también soy cliente satusfecha de Cava Marcello 👍
Angelica Hernández-Gaeta
Querida Cookie, me encanta leerte . La naturalidad y entusiasmo con que describes cada platillo hace que desee transportarme de inmediato al lugar. Espero con gran ilusión tu próxima reseña.
Por supuesto Cava Marcello está en mis favoritos. Excelente opción!